I don't play games, I just enjoy painting. So, usually I don't have an interest on speed painting. Lots of people worries about that oil painting is extremely slow, and believed that oil paints are not suitable for the speed painting. If you're talking about just painting a single mini, that may be true. However, if you're intending to paint multiple mini, this is not true. Painting in oil itself does not take a lot of time, but may take some time for the drying and curing process.

I only spent about an hour to finish painting (except the priming, assembling and varnish) it. Here's the whole process.

Once assembled, I put a small pine tree bark as a rock on the base. Glued everything on the base, and primed the miniature.

Basecoated with Liquitex Acrylic Gouache Ultramarine Blue Red Shade and Primary Red. Liquitex Acrylic Gouache is extremely matte, providing very good surface (tooth) to the oil paints later. One downside is that sometimes it create chalky surface (not the color, but the texture), but I'll use oils later, so it shouldn't be be matter. Any blue and red acrylic paints are okay.

Another base coat for the gold parts (Liquitex Gouache Burnt Sienna with a hint of Ultramarine) edge of the shoulder plate and the wings in the chest, gun holsters, etc. Then I started work with oils for the helmet. First applied Alizarine Crimson glaze on the helmet overall, gave the shadow with Burnt Umber, brought the redness in highlighted area with Cadmium Red Medium, then use Titanium White for the intense reflection. Glazed the eye with Cadmium Yellow Light and darken with Burnt Umber.

Applied the transfers (decals). Once the transfers are completely set, I'll apply matte varnish to provide enough tooth and reduce the reflection of the decal.

Now is the main painting job begins.

Unlike acrylics, I found that blue is the most difficult colors for the oils. First, most blue pigments are transparent, Second, once it's mixed with white (for highlight), it looks very patchy (or chalky), not easy to handle it. Tried Ultramarine, Cobalt blue, even expensive Cerulean blue, but haven't satisfied. The only exception was that Phthalo blue, which is not very popular in canvas oil painters as its overpowering tint strength. I found that mixing Phthalo blue with Titanium white does not have meaningful differences, but applied Phthalo thinly (without diluting it), then another thin application of Titanium white create nice transition of the colors.

(While writing this, I'm thinking that perhaps the problem was not in blue pigments but in Titanium White...)

You'll see the left arm of this mini looks very chalky which reflects my difficulties on blue highlight. I wiped out my painting job on the left arm, then tried White over Phthalo blue, which is shown in the final photo.

For the dark shadow of the blue, I used similar technique, such that applying Alizarin Crimson (transparent red) over blue oil paint.

Then, I gently (barely touching the surface) brushed the surface to smooth out with a mob brush. I applied some silver paints to mimic scratches on the metal armors. I should have darken it slightly, as some scratches look too bright. Once it cured completely, I applied matte varnish (Liquitex Soluvar Matte). Here's final photos.